Fly tying – getting started – part 2 – Saltwater
You needn’t worry about being super detailed when tying this particular pattern, as long as it has the right shape and profile and gives an enticing silhouette of the prey your mimicking it will do the business.
Saltwater Fly Fishing in the UK is steadily becoming more popular, whether your quarry is Sea Bass, Pollock, Mackerel, Mullet or Garfish to name a few, the need for information on Saltwater flies is also on the rise, however, there are a couple of patterns that you really need to get started with and this being a “getting started” on Fly Tying we thought we’d show you one, you’ll be shovelling these out in the dozens in no-time.
Extremely simple, quick and versatile pattern with a nod to the famouse Clouser Minnow. Intended to imitate Sandeels or Launce depending how big you want to tie it, we found this Pattern extremely effective for Pollock, however Bass, Mackerel and any other sporting Predatory Fish that Swims in the Ocean will be more than happy to inhale it.
This Pollock inhaled a 7″ version of the fly on the drop next to some kelp beds.
Material & Non-Materials
Modified S1052 Saltwater Single.
the reason for modification is that when you tie the dumbells on the top of the hook just foreward of where its bent, it flips the hook to ride hookpoint up, wich is ideal if your fishing rocky or weedy areas.
UV Chartreuse Kanekalon
White Kanekalon
6 “Peacocke hearle – It can be around 6″ doesn’t have to be exact
Medium Dumbbell eyes
Strong white thread – Kevlar Thread is Perfect
SPRITE PREDATOR Swimming Shrimp S1000 size 2 – an exceptional alternative would be the S1052 Saltwater Single
Superglue
Tip: kanekalon can sometimes be a little frizzy, to sort this out hold the material over a boiling kettle and the steam will straighten it out, just give it a comb through after. Also, an extremely cheap material.
Step 1; pop your hook in the vice and pinching the tag of the thread along the shank, tie in your thread from the hook-eye to roughly 1/4 back on the shank of the hook.
To make this easier you can add a drop of super glue for the thread to bind onto , this will also improve the longevity of your fly.
Step 2; Tie in the Dumbbells on the latter part of the thread, add a small dab of super glue to secure further.
Step 3; Take around 4″ of the White Kanekalon, taper it by pulling the ends slightly and twisting it back and forth between your thumb and forefinger.
pinch the material and tie in just behind the dumbbells keeping maximum thread tension, trim the waste poking out the opposite way.
Less is more, you do not need a -lot of this material, however there is no harm in experimenting.
Step 5; thread wrap back to the edge of the dumbbells, tie in your peacocke hearle pointing towards the front (place it on the middle of the shank on both sides, so when you fold it back, its parallel with the hook) with about a CM facing back.
Step 7; making sure not to drip super glue down the end of your bobbin tube (you really don’t want that) dab a small amount of super glue on the thread just coming off the hook shank, wrap that on. cut the thread, if there’s a little tag end, just rub it round the hook with you finger and the residual glue will stick it down, then super glue the rest of the thread head so its nicely covered, and leave to dry. no need for whip finishes with this fly.
Step 4; rotate your vice so the hook point is facing upwards, take about 7″ of Chartruese Kanekalon, tapering it in the same way as the White. Tie in 80% back & 20% front with loose thread wraps, but enough tension to ensure the material doesn’t slip off the hook. Spread the material evenly over the top half of the hook, then add the tighter thread wraps securing it nicely. you can add a drop of super glue for durability.
Step 6; Fold the hearle back so its parallel with the hook shank, secure with thread wraps then do the same with the Kanekalon, sitting it in the dumbell groove in the centre and secure with tight thread wraps. you can add a lot of thread here if you wish, doing it all the way up to the hook-eye, this helps makes the fly really solid and durable.
The finished Fly. A “Fishing fly” designed to catch the fish, not the Angler.
The great thing about this style of pattern is the versatility of it, you can use different materials, colours, hooks etc.
The same Fly tied with a 2/0 SPRITE S1052 Saltwater Single.
Around the 7″ mark at total length.
These colours when whitnessed in the clear Saltwater really seem to pop.
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